If
you walk on the lane outside the 60-year old single screen Paradise
cinema, the heady smell of fish frying to a crisp will assault your senses. The
aroma works as a beacon, guiding Mahim residents to the one place that can
satisfy their fish cravings, Sushegad Gomantak.
This
12-year-old eatery screams fish. If the aroma isn’t enough, the day’s specials
lined up on a blackboard feature only fish. For extra reading, there is a board
describing in minute detail the different fish available in India.
Choose your Poisson
Sushegad
Gomantak is like your neighbourhood aunty’s house- on passing by and smelling
good food, you drop by for a bite to eat or to carry home with you. Most customers
walk up to the kitchen and ask for fish fry or the rechead bangda (mackerel
stuffed with a spicy masala made of red chillies and spices).
Now,
ordering fish is no simple task. You have to choose which fish you want, how
you want it prepared and what you want as an accompaniment. Fish names on the
menu are very colloquial and similar to what you would find bandied around at
fish markets - the much-loved bangda (mackeral), makli (squid), muddoshi (lady
fish), tamboshi (red snapper) and mandeli.
One
of the restaurant’s most popular choices is xinanio (mussels) which is best eaten
crispy fried, coated in a light batter. As in Goa,
mori (shark) here is very common, best eaten in the ambotik (a light
non-coconut curry that’s spicy and sour, hence the name).
 |
| Crab curry |
If
you want to get your hands dirty, the crab masala should help you do that. Steamed
crab coated with a special homemade masala, and served with a bowl of sol
kadhi, a cabbage preparation and chutney, it is a meal in itself. I gather that
customers have spent many a happy hour, cracking open the crab shells and
removing the juicy white, lightly spiced meat. An equally delicious and messy
option is the crab fry, which uses palm-sized crabs fried in the rava
(semolina) and rice flour batter.
Gomantak-style
Sushegad
Gomantak’s kitchen is presided over by Savita maushi, who prepares all the
masalas and batter to be used. Speak to her in Konkani and her face lights up;
she will even leaves her work and come and stand at the dividing wall between
the kitchen and the restaurant to talk to you.
Savita
maushi grew up in a small place in Calangute, Goa
where she was introduced to a variety of seafood very early. Her favourite fish
then used to be pomfret, cooked by her mother. Over the years, cooking it day
in and day out in her kitchen has lessened her love for that fish; she now
prefers the bangda. When she was 13, she shifted with her family to Mumbai.
This was in the 1940s. Living in a joint family meant cooking for around 8-10
people at every meal, a task that no doubt sharpened her cooking skills. “The
food here is cooked exactly the way I have been doing it at home,” she says. It
is not exactly the same, she adds thoughtfully. “I use more chillies here, the
customers like it”.
 |
| Tisreo sukhe served with cabbage and sol kadhi |
Fish
at Sushegad Gomantak is prepared in three basic styles. There is a simple
masala for the sukhe, featuring ginger, garlic, chillies, haldi and lime which
is ground together and coated on the fish. A slightly more complicated masala
for the fish curries involves grinding about 25 coconuts (the day’s quota),
Goan dried chillies, dhania, kali miri (black pepper), jeera and garlic till
very fine. The curry is cooked by first frying onions, green chillies and
tamarind, then adding the masala and finally the fish. “We use only khobrayche
tel (the oil that is removed after drying coconut in the sun) got from Goa,” says Savita maushi, adding that the oil is used
very sparingly.
 |
| Fried squid - Yoshita Sengupta |
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| Fried crabs (foreground) and kalwa masala (background)- Yoshita Sengupta |
Other
ingredients specially got from Goa are dried
chillies, tehfal, mussels and mori. Savita maushi’s third cooking style, and
easily the most preferred, is the fish fry. Every kind of fish available,
including the crab, is coated in batter of rice flour and rava and fried till
crispy. The batter is light and crunchy and doesn’t overpower the fish,
allowing its natural juices to come through.
Besides
fish, you can also find a variety of chicken and mutton dishes here, the mutton
sukha being a take-away favourite. Every dish comes with a small onion and a
cabbage salad, and homemade green chutney. The chutney is made with onions,
chillies, pudina, ginger, garlic and coriander ground to a fine paste. Coconut
isn’t used as it would make the chutney heavy thus overpowering the taste of
the fish.
 |
| Prawn cutlet |
“Our
cooking style is very family-style Hindu Goan,” adds her son Raju, usually
found manning the cash register and occasionally helping out in the kitchen.
Savita
maushi’s joint family may have long scattered and gone. These past years, however
she has filled her life with feeding at even larger one.
An edited version of this appeared in DNA on April 29